![]() Through the catalog of Fedco Trees, a mail-order company he founded in Maine 30 years ago, Bunker has sown the seeds of a grassroots apple revolution.Īll weekend long, I watched people gravitate to what Bunker (“Bunk” to his friends, a category that seems to include half the population of Maine) calls “the vibrational pull” of a table laden with bright apples. Bunker is known in Maine as “The Apple Whisperer,” or simply “The Apple Guy,” and, after laboring for years in semi-obscurity, he has never been in more demand. There was a gnarled little yellow thing called a Westfield Seek-No-Further a purplish plum impostor called a Black Oxford a massive, red-streaked Wolf River and one of Thomas Jefferson’s go-to fruits, the Esopus Spitzenburg. Last September, once again, they covered every possible size, shape, and color in the wide world of appleness. Every fall at Maine’s Common Ground Country Fair, the Lollapalooza of sustainable agriculture, John Bunker sets out a display of eccentric apples. ![]()
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